Desert Diva, Marina Bruce reveals all the best things to do at the Al Dhafra Festival.
Many moons ago, even before the UAE became the wonderful country it is today, people would travel vast distances to come together at camel race meets and the Al Dhafra festival reflects this tradition.
Back in the day, camels would be bought and sold, falcons would be raced as would the Arabian hunting dog, the saluki, and families would take the time to reacquaint themselves with their distant relatives, and much the same as happens at Al Dhafra today.
Getting There
Firstly, getting there is easy these days since the E11 has increased from two lanes each way to four, and higher speed limits put in place. The E11 from Abu Dhabi westwards is now 160km per hour and the E45 from the Tarif ADNOC south to Madinat Zayed is now 140km per hour. Both roads have street lights, have wide lanes and hard shoulders.
The festival is held 15kms south of the city of Madinat Zayed – just set your google maps for the Tilal Liwa Hotel and it will take you to it.
Where to Stay
There are two hotels in the area which are always full for the festival, however if you have a tent then camping opportunities abound. Alternatively, you can get there in about 1.5hours from the Abu Dhabi Mafraq junction.
Here is the official schedule
However, my top things to see at the festival are not on the list and I have shared them below.
Camel Race Practice
Although it may mean an early start for you, I recommend you arrive about 9am.
Once you leave the main road and turn into the festival area, you will see a camel racetrack on your left – you will not find daily races as part of the event, but you will see racing camels being exercised or trained every morning from sunrise until around 10am.
At practice, the young camels are readied for racing with robot jockeys attached. Their owners will follow them round the track in their Patrol or Landcruiser, shouting encouragement via an intercom on the robot, as well as beeping the car horn to simulate some of the noise on an actual race.
Camels Crossing at the “Special Camel Corridor”
A pedestrian crossing for camels, this is a must get photo for your album. You have to cross it on your way to the souq/arena, so don’t worry, there is no way you will miss it.
Camel Beauty Judging
After you are finished with the racing, follow the signs for the Souq, park up and make your way to the grandstand area – there you will find the camel beauty contests being judged every morning except Fridays. Enter at the VIP area where you will be seated, given ghawa (lovely Arabic coffee), water and sometimes dates, and then taken by a guide down into the judging area. Note: Al Hosn Green status is required for entry.
Prizegiving
Most days at approximately at 4pm there is a prizegiving. Be at the grandstand really early to guarantee entry and a seat to sit on – social distancing has meant that the capacity is cut by 50%! You will need Al Hosn Green Status to get in. The atmosphere is amazing and the compere is incredible, building the excitement up until he announces “Namoooooooooose” (winner/standard bearer). Guthra (headdresses) are thrown in the air by the winning family – some of the prizes, depending on class, are AED 200,000. After this. the winning camels are taken to be anointed with saffron and then they will be paraded down million street.
Million Street
At 4.45pm-5pm you want to be on Million Street to see any sporadic camel auctions which take part in the middle of the street, as well as the chance to join in, or just watch, the winners being paraded back to their camp. There is much noise, crazy driving, music, flags, children standing atop cars, and as before, the atmosphere is incredible.
Million Street Souq
Although your visit will probably just last a day, bedu families come and camp here for weeks, and a whole little “high street” springs up to cater for their needs. Food trucks, laundries, camping gear shops, winter clothes shops are here, as well as Baqalas (convenience stores) and restaurants (tip: Eyes of Gulf does the most amazing food).
Heritage Souq
Spend some time in the souq where there are many little shops selling traditional Emirati craft items as well as exhibitions by government organisations such as ADNOC, ENEC (Emirates Nuclear Energy Co) etc.
In the evenings there is a programme of entertainment plus kid’s craft activities and much more.
Evening Hospitality
There are many camps which offer hospitality for guests, hook up with a local guide and they will take you to one for dinner.
Tips
It is quite cold in Al Dhafra Festival anyways, so you will be more comfortable with loose warm clothes. Long trousers, tshirts, shirts/blouses are fine, and if you are here early morning/evening you will need a fleece or light jacket as it is cold.
Marina Bruce is a desert guide, writer and adventurer, and her company, Xpedition Arabia, offers guided self-drive adventures throughout the Gulf and live in Madinat Zayed beside the festival. Follow her on her instagram @xpedition_arabia_by_desertdiva.
