What do you get when you take four regions, 20 courses, two stars and a passionate chef? A degustation like no other at Tresind Studio
When just 20 seats around little white-clothed tables are all positioned to face an open kitchen, it remarkably morphs into a stage.
Led by Chef Himanshu Saini, Tresind Studio has much to its credit. The only Indian restaurant holding two Michelin stars in the UAE, the spice and pickle-laden shelves, drawers, and walls set the scene for a story to be told.
The team radiates the signature warmth of Indian hospitality even as a sense of urgency builds towards the reveal of a 20-course tasting menu. There are smiles all around as guests are greeted with the freshest coconut water, and a buzz in the kitchen as chefs meticulously pick flowers, lay out gorgeous plates and taste-test broths.
A beautifully detailed map of India is taken to each table as the server explains the Rising India menu. Exploring the diverse geography of the subcontinent, it features courses from the four corners, namely the Thar Desert, Deccan Plateau, Coastal Plains and Islands, Northern Plains and Himalayan Mountains.
For Chef Himanshu, it is this introduction of themes and exploration of cuisines that is a defining marker of the pre and post Michelin era.
“I would say that before the Michelin arrived, the menu was just like any other tasting menu, where you create the best dishes irrespective of any story or thought in terms of the experience,” he says.
“And now, I think it becomes more challenging for us to curate a menu that explores the gastronomic presence of the country and pushes me to explore in a direction that I otherwise wouldn’t have.”
Up for review is the Synergy menu, a blend of food paired with home-brewed blends from the Papadom Botanic Bar. The unconscious sustainability of Tresind Studio is best espoused in the licensed beverages made in-house as part of their beverage programme.
Utilising scraps from the kitchen, the ‘grapes’ serve as pre-cursors to every course accompanied by detailed explanations from the staff. Featuring ingredients ranging from popcorn to yoghurt, herbs to bell peppers, they truly enhance the flavours of the dishes without overpowering them.
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As for the menu itself, Chef Himanshu has truly outdone himself in terms of technique, taste and theatre. The attention to detail is commendable, with a relevant centrepiece set at the table marking each region’s courses.
The menu kicks off with four appetisers, one from each region. Of these, the Shiso Papadum with a yoghurt crémeux and garden herbs comes on top by a mile. Batting for the Thar region, the bite-sized course set atop a giant rock is the perfect combination of crispy and creamy textures.
The entire meal is rehearsed to a fault and served in quick but not overwhelming succession, with the pass at the kitchen a flurry of movement before you’re greeted with another delectable bite.
Devoid of starch and a need for cutlery, the evening is a realisation of Chef Himanshu’s vision to create an unorthodox Indian meal.
With 11 of the 20 courses highlighting vegetables, Chef Himanshu explains, “In our cooking style, we believe that the proteins in the dish are secondary. For example, we do a dish that heroes a cinnamon bark with crab. For vegetarians, it is with jackfruit and if you asked me as a chef, I think the jackfruit is a more interesting dish. We treat it the same, but the jackfruit emphasises the ghee roast masala more.”
While all the dishes could have us raving till the end of the time, a truly Michelin-star bite is the Tender Coconut Kushiyaki served on a skewer adorned with smoked Nilgiri spices and a side of Yuzu Rasam. Bursting with all the spicy vegetal flavours of the Deccan plateau, the Rasam is just one in a line of umami broths that will leave you wanting more.
Two major theatrical moments come with the Onam Sadya, whereby the dish is assembled at your table by the entire team and some surprise elements we won’t ruin for you. Another comes right at the end with the ‘Honeymoon’ tea, complete with a song and lights. We won’t say any further, just that it’s the perfect end to a perfect meal.
Given the myriad of elements in each course, one would assume the seasonal menus are taxing to conceptualise.
But the chef counters, saying, “We just follow a simple philosophy, any dish we create is not a complete or final one. Every element of a dish or a sauce or a curry or pickle can be used in our process of evolution where, with further learning and understanding of more ingredients, it just becomes something else.”
It’s not the kind of stuffed Indian meals are typically associated with, but you’re sure to leave with your hearts full.
For bookings, call 058 895 1272 or visit tresindstudio.com
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