DUBAI RESTAURANT REVIEW: The ‘reincarnated’ At.mosphere is all things exclusive and extravagant done right

Back with a completely revamped aesthetic, the restaurant and lounge is serving quintessential modern French plates against a backdrop of vintage art glamour

Riding the world’s fastest lift in the tallest building sets the bar quite high for a meal. In this case, literally so, with a striking spiral staircase leading you down to the 122nd floor of Burj Khalifa.

Fortunately, the dramatic mirrors, stunning elements, and warm welcome at At.mosphere promise to live up to the expectations. The restaurant, together with a relaxed lounge and bar area has long been a haunt for discerning gastronomes.

Timeless elegance and sheer opulence greet you at every corner of the restaurant. The elegance is reflected in every detail, right from the mirrors and marble to the mosaic flooring, bookshelves and intricate fabric walls. Adorned in hues of burgundy and indigo, the space instantly transports you to old-worldly glamour.

We were fortunate to be seated at a table by the window, with the daylight offering a chance to drink in the naturally gorgeous views of Dubai’s busiest roads juxtaposed against the luxurious serenity of the restaurant. Amidst the handcrafted sculptures, intricate ornaments and sleek combination of mirror and wood, we began our journey across the inviting three-course set menu.

With a predominantly modern French take, the menu features quality produce that rotates to reflect the season. So a few favourites apart, every meal at At.mosphere can tap into a different facet of your palate. Given the highly tempting nature of the larger menu, the concise set menus can also be a great way to trade indecisiveness for pure indulgence.

 

At.mosphere In Burj Khalifa

 

Hardly a few moments into putting our orders in, we were greeted with a selection of warm, fragrant bread to choose from. Torn between the three, we ended up settling on the onion bread and smoked sourdough. Even simply paired with butter, a basket of it might have left us satisfied enough.

Another pumpkin soup amuse bouche later, the starters arrived. The Foie Gras Terrine served with a small piece of brioche and date chutney is the perfect symphony of flavours. The sweet chutney cuts through the richness of the terrine and makes for an excellent bite. The star of that course ended up being the Tuna Tartare, a bluefin served with fava beans and a seasonal poached quail egg. A drizzle of some herb oil made for a pretty plate, and a textbook-perfect bite.

What makes At.mosphere a brilliant spot is its versatility. It could just as easily be a place to celebrate an intimate occasion as the setting to impress a client. The elements scattered across the room also make for interesting conversation starters, enhancing an already special meal.

The mains arrived shortly after, a work of art in their own right against a black ceramic canvas. My companion opted for the Wagyu Short Rib, served with mashed potatoes, vegetables and a rich jus. I went with the Grilled Seabass, accompanied by gnocchi, sweet potato mash, and a citrusy buerre blanc. Suffice it to say, the plates were emptied quite quickly, interrupted only by intermittent exclamations of ecstasy from two very pleased diners.

The portions are deceptively tiny, and come dessert you will find yourself positively bursting at the seams. However, it would be nothing short of a sin to skimp on the dessert. While At.mosphere’s Chocolate Extravaganza delivers exactly what you might think, the Crème Brûlée came as a pleasant surprise. You might miss the traditional sugary crunch on top, but the custard makes up for it and then some. Alongside, you get adorable little bites of vanilla chantilly cream, ice cream, fresh diced strawberries and even a blueberry tart. Together with the lightest madeleine, it’s a beautiful dessert that could easily be shared between two.

All the way from the aged brass trim to the luxurious velvet finishes, the restaurant is all things exclusive and extravagant done right. Add to that a near-flawless menu, views to die for plus gracious service through it all, and it’s a meal that will leave you floating among the clouds.

 

For bookings and more information, call 04 888 3828

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Image source At.mosphere Dubai

 

Caroline D’Almeida

A little bit of India, a little more of the UAE, and a lot of shawarma perhaps best captures Caroline’s anatomy. An avid believer in value for money, her hobbies include putting the ‘elite lifestyle’ to the test. And finding cheaper dupes for it all. A Sharjah girl new to the capital, she hopes to discover the pulse of the emirate.